#RAGEQUIT
In the first part of our discussion on racing harnesses, we covered some basic statics, looked at the geometry of shoulder belt angles, how that impacts the forces that your body sees, and some tips on shoulder belt routing. This time we will take a closer look at lap belts, sub straps, mounting points, and my favorite thing in the world to hate: four point belts! (Seriously, I hate those things. Hate… HATE!)
Lap Belts
As with the shoulder belts, lap belts transfer the forces exerted on your body during a crash from your body, into the belts, and finally into the structure of the car. Also, as with shoulder belts, the angle at which those belts are installed can be the difference between surviving an accident unharmed and, well… not unharmed. However, this time the reasons are a bit more straightforward (This means no math. I’m bummed, but I have a feeling that you are probably okay with that.).
Properly installed lap belts must sit on the iliac crest. (No, I’m not a doctor… and no, I won’t look at that rash for you. See here for more info. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iliac_crest) That basically means that the lap belts should sit just below the points of your pelvic bone that you can feel on either side near your belt line. (Think about where the waistline of low rise jeans would fall… if you’re into that sort of thing.) This is, for lack of a better term, a ‘structural’ area of the body. In an impact, the forces are transmitted through bone and muscle. If the belts are installed at angles that place them above the iliac crest and high on your abdomen, the forces will be transmitted through those soft, squishy, rather important bits that live between your ribcage and your pelvis. This can cause serious internal bleeding, organ damage, you get the picture…
This tends to be more of a problem for the kind of racer who wore ‘Husky’-sized jeans in middle school. I’ve seen plenty of you big-boy types wear the cam lock damn near up to your sternum. Don’t do this. Readjust the length of your shoulder harnesses if you have to. Make sure the latch sits low!
Sub Straps
Ahhh, Sub Straps: not just those things that makes you uncomfortable in your gentleman’s area. At first glance, sub straps seem quite counter intuitive. I’ve just told you that it is never preferable to exert restraining forces with your squishy bits and here we go with a component that looks like it does just that. Well… to some extent, you’d be right. A traditional 5-point harness with a single strap trussing up your wedding veg can induce forces in undesirable portions of your anatomy in a crash. (Or on the grid for that matter.) We at WBF prefer 6-point belts for this very reason. A properly installed 6-point harness will transfer forces around the groin and reduce the risk of injury to your… you know… region.
Ok, so now that we’ve put the colorful euphemisms behind us, lets discuss what a sub strap is really meant to do. It is not just, as you might first assume, to restrain forward movement. Its a bit more complicated than that.
Firstly, it prevents submarining. Submarining is the rotation or sliding of the body under the lap belts. In a forward impact, the body tends to remain in motion (ala Newton… Haha! Science!) and tries to squirt out of the harness along the path of least resistance. In the absence of a sub strap, this path is essentially out the bottom of the harness. A sub strap holds the lower body and keeps you fully restrained by the harness/seat system.
Secondly, as we discussed in the previous article, belts are tension-only members. When your body exerts force on the shoulder harnesses, it tries to move forward and stretch the belt. The belt also tries to go into tension from your shoulder to the latch. With no sub strap restraining it, it will try to pull the cam lock upward until the shoulder belt and lap belt form a straight line. This can allow the cam lock to move up and cause internal injury as described above or, in extreme cases, can impact the upper chest or even the neck. I doubt I need to describe the trouble you would be in if that happened.
As always, belt angles are critical. The sub strap angle for 6-point belts should be vertical down from the crotch or slightly angled rearward. This is a rule-of-thumb and should not be taken as law for all installations. Formula cars, for instance, with extreme lay down angles may require special technologies or installation methods to ensure the same affect. Check with your harness manufacturer for their recommendations.
Do NOT route sub straps over the front of a factory seat. Do NOT position sub straps so that they route under you and out the back of the seat. Both methods introduce the potential for slack in the belts. This means they don’t keep you where they should and cannot properly protect you in an impact! If you have questions about this, the reasoning is the same as in every other discussion we’ve had about belt angles and belts fouling seats or other obstructions. Belts act in tension along a straight path. If they aren’t routed at the correct angle with no restrictions, they will try their damnedest to make that happen. Don’t force them to work against your installation. I promise, you will not like the results!
Anchor Points - Strength
What can I say here? They need to be strong. Like, stupid strong. Don’t let this be the weak point of the installation. It is preferable to build a structure that integrates seat and harness mounts into the cage. If that isn’t feasible, you should at least build a structure into the floorpan that provides reinforcement for the mounts. Commonly available spreader plates are good, but I prefer to strengthen the floor on the topside with a bit of 1”x1”x0.065” square tubing stitch welded to the floor and let the spreader plates span across the tubes.
For lap belts, the factory seat belt attachment points are often a good choice as long as the belt angles work for your setup. Just don’t try to save a little fabrication in exchange for poorly fitting belts. Most factory lap belt locations use a 7/16”-UNF thread and clip-in adapters that thread in to the factory holes are readily available in the aftermarket… just don’t buy some knockoff of unknown metallurgy, and please, for the love of all that is Holy, don’t buy some cast iron bullshit that sort of looks like the real thing from the hardware store and expect it to save you.
Anchor Points - Type
For shoulder belts, 99% of the time it will make the most sense to wrap them around the harness bar. Just follow the manufacturers instructions and the tips laid out in the previous article and you’ll be fine. If you have a purpose built race car that requires bolting your shoulder belts, see below.
We prefer clip in style attachments whenever possible. They provide several features that we like. Belts can be removed, adjusted, and reinstalled without the need for tools, the hardware is designed for this exact application and is load rated, and there is never a risk of the belt binding and “dumping”.
Dumping
Belt dumping is a phenomena that most of us first became aware of after Dale Earnhardt’s fatal crash at Daytona. As we’ve discussed before, a belt is a tension-only member. If it is kinked or held at some angle other than the angle at which the force on it is being applied, it naturally tries to straighten out to match the force.
A quick example: Have you ever picked up a clothes hanger with a pair of pants hanging on the bottom bar when suddenly the pants shift slightly to one side and then suddenly the hanger rotates and the pants slide down to the end of the hanger and into a wadded mess? This is a far less dangerous example of the dumping effect. When the pants slide slightly off center, the force acting on them (gravity) is no longer acting through the center of the hook. Once that force is unbalanced the whole system finds a way to center the force again. The pants slide down, the hanger rotates, and the system finds equilibrium.
If you think of the hook of the hanger as the attachment point of your harness and of the hanger itself as the bracket that attaches the harness to the attachment point, you can see that the bracket must be able to rotate if the tension is to remain constant in the belt. If the bracket is bolted too tight, pinched between the mounting tabs, or for some reason, welded (Why would you do this!? Why?), the bracket cannot rotate and one side of the belt will be loaded unevenly. Why is this undesirable? Have you ever seen someone tear a phonebook in half? They don’t attack the entire thing at once. They pinch a corner and tear a small weak section. Once its started, the whole thing tears much easier. Your belts are the same way. If they are loaded unevenly (even under what would otherwise be an acceptable load) and a small failure begins, the entire belt can tear from this weak spot and the belt can fail in an instant. That is belt dumping and it can be fatal.
Four Point Harnesses
I told you that we’d get to my hatred of these. Hopefully by now, you understand the importance of preventing submarining.
“But what about ASM technology!?”, the internet asked in unison.
ASM technology is essentially a failure point built into 4-point belts designed to give way in an impact. I’ve talked at some length to manufacturers who claim that this technology is safe and effective. Maybe it is… in a laboratory, on a test rig, under controlled conditions, when installed and adjusted by the manufacturer, in a common direction of loading, between noon and 2pm, on Sunday, after Labor Day, when the bells ring…
In theory, I suppose it can be said that it works, but as we have seen in every example so far, controlling the position of the body relative to the harness is critical. When the belt is counted on to fail as part of its standard operation, I cannot be convinced that it will perform in a satisfactory manner every time. As an instructor, I have upset more than my share of students be refusing to use their 4-points, opting instead for the factory 3-point belts.
“But what about a roll over with a fixed seat and a harness and no roll hoop!?”, the internet inquired incessantly.
This is the point of the conversation where a very honest discussion of risk begins. It is true that a factory system is engineered to keep the driver as safe as possible during a roll over event. The seat backs, belt tensioners, headrests, airbags, and all the rest are designed as a system to work in unison by some very smart, very well educated people. At this point, you must ask, “What are the limitations of the factory design?” “Did those very smart people ever assume that I’d be going 140mph down the back straight at Road Atlanta?” The truth is, if you are driving a road car on a race track, you are most likely operating it outside of the parameters for which it was designed.
What does that mean to you? Should you trust the work of the OEM in a range outside of their design envelope? Should you defer to another group of very smart, very well educated people who have developed racing safety standards over the years and put in a full cage, fixed back seat, harness, HANS (or equivalent), etc.? Should you operate on your own and mix and match bits and pieces from both systems making assumptions about your personal exposure to risk and hope that it all goes well when it all goes to hell?
We can’t make that decision for you. The best we can do is give you some knowledge and hope you can use it to better inform your choices. As for us, for open track use, we recommend (at a minimum) the following:
- 6-point Harness (Properly installed! You should be an expert by now.)
- Fixed back seat with rear seat mount. (Yes, even for FIA seats. See the new Racetech models for examples.)
- HANS device or any similar SFI 38.1 approved device.
- Rear Cage (Roll hoop with harness bar, diagonal bar, and rear stays.)
Conclusion
Has this all been heavy enough for you? Are you confused? Have I successfully pissed you off? Are you presently smashing your keyboard in a hate-fueled rage?
Yeah, we know… people have some pretty strongly held beliefs about this sort of thing. Don’t like what we have to say on the matter? That’s ok, but don’t just depend on the wisdom of the Facebook masses to inform your decisions about the right gear and how to install it. The manufacturers will help you. Your retailer (if they are a reputable motorsports gear shop) will help you. Don’t depend on hearsay, tribal knowledge, or what the guy next to you in the paddock says. Please use what we’ve presented here and in the previous article, ask your suppliers the hard questions, and above all, plan for the worst to happen. You’ll forget all about the extra money you spent on your safety gear if you ever have to use it.